There are big differences between fashion and costume for performance that are often not considered even within UAL. Most notably, fashion designers find models that will fit the garment, where in costume, we make to measure the garment for the performer. Actors are hired to play a character and it is very common for productions to hire actors with disabilities for authenticity of the character. In the film Saving Private Ryan producer Mark Huffam has been quoted as saying that “we had somewhere between 20 and 30 amputees and paraplegics who worked with us, creating very realistic scenes where we could use effects to make it look like soldiers were losing limbs. Some might say it was an insensitive approach, but they all did it with great enthusiasm.” (2018)
We have had students find performers with disabilities and extra measures need to be considered that the students often overlook as it is not taught within the curriculum regarding fitting the costumes. A student did not inform us that their performer was in a wheelchair and the LCF costumes rooms in Lime Grove D Block are not wheelchair accessible. We managed to create a fitting area within the 3D effects room, which is on the ground floor, but this was not considered by the student before the day of the fitting. Accessibility to fitting areas, asking performers in advanced if they have any special requirements or requests, for example I have worked with ASD performers who do not like to be touched which can be complicated if you are not familiar with this and how to work around it. This is not limited to just performers with disabilities but also extends to performers who are Trans as well who may feel more comfortable with extra measures in place, particularly when getting undressed in front of the costume team, and students may not be familiar with garments such as binders and gaffs. It is common for performers to be transparent with the production team, but its important for students to understand that might not always be the case if the performer wishes for confidentiality. Preparing for any situation that can occur during a fitting and having the correct fitting etiquette can prevent any issues occurring.
It has been a plan of mine to create an LCF technical resource page on fitting etiquette for the performance students for a while to help them prepare for their fittings and creating this as my artefact felt right. The LCF tech pages were created during Covid and have now become a staple resource site for our students to refer to. I do not want to create a page solely on fitting performers with differences but create a page about fitting anyone and everyone to be inclusive. Creating a page that contains information on what kit to bring to fittings, having an assistant to help them, to gender neutral measurement sheets, accessibility to fitting areas for all performers regardless of ableism, disability, or gender. Understanding differences from fittings within the college compared to industry and linking to further information they can access on inclusive fittings. It is imperative for students to understand that treating all performers the same and being prepared for everything will help create a comfortable environment for the performer who may feel anxious and vulnerable in this space . It is also important that the LCF Tech page itself is accessible for all students too. Ensuring that the text is easily translatable, there are photos and where possible videos, to give students as many options to help with their own learning styles.
References
Lewis, R (2018) Saving Private Ryan’s harrowing 23-minute opening scene cost $12 million to make Available at https://metro.co.uk/2018/07/11/saving-private-ryans-harrowing-20-minute-opening-scene-cost-12-million-make-7701547/ (Accessed 25th May 2023)