PG Cert

Lockstitch sewing machines and Overlockers

The main barrier that I found within our workshops are the sewing machines. As the costume specialist technician, my role is to deliver technical workshops which all require the use of the industrial sewing machines and Overlockers. The outcomes of the technical workshops are part of the assessment criteria for year one two and pivotal for students to gain skills to progress through the degree. All students are assessed on their sewing ability and although we have had students in the past who have personal support assistance due to learning differences, they were not allowed to sew for the students. Currently, all our industrial sewing machines and overlocker’s are operated by a pedal controlled by the feet. I have asked Dave Richardson who is the machine technician for East Bank, if we have any industrial machines in the building that are wheelchair accessible and we do not. He informed me that many years ago they did make an electrical adaptation to a sewing machine for a student who was a wheelchair user and it took months to get this ordered, delivered and operational. But at least it is an option. The adaptation was a push button that powered the machine, however this is not ideal. There is no speed control with this, and you want your hands on the work you are sewing, not a button.

For students who are wheelchair users and students with mobility impairments, the use of a foot pedal is likely not an option to operate the machines.

Our overlocker machines have 2 foot pedals. One to lift the foot of the machine, and one to power it.

Pattern Cutting Tables.

I heard many discussions about having height adjustable pattern cutting tables for the move to East bank to make them accessible. However, that did not transpire. We have custom built tables that were designed for the user to be standing in order to draft patterns, which is industry standard. They stand at 920mm high which is a barrier for a wheelchair user who does not have a height adjustable chair. However, the main problem with the tables is not the height, but the storage shelf fitted towards the base. This is part of the frame of the table and can not be removed. This would prevent a chair from getting close to the table. We currently only have high stalls available as seating for the tables which could be a barrier for students with mobility impairments.

Conclusions of room observation: Qualitative data.

As it stands, we currently haver no industrial machines that can be used by wheelchair users, and potentially those with mobility impairments depending on condition. The only option we have for students is the use of domestic (at home) machines that are usable without a foot pedal. These are used in the rooms for certain garments and are used on the pattern cutting tables by students. As the tables are also an issue, the only option would be for students to use these in the heart space outside of the classroom. The detrimental and isolating effect this could have on a student has to be considered. “University staff need to be aware of the impact the hidden curriculum. can have on the social inclusion of disabled students. Disabled students need the opportunity to interact with their non-disabled peers socially.”

References

Masters, S (2023) Lockstitch machine

Masters, S (2023) Overlocker machines

Masters, S (2023) Pattern cutting tables

Shaw, A., (2021). Inclusion of disabled Higher Education students: why are we not there yet?. International Journal of Inclusive Education, pp.1-19. Available at https://www-tandfonline-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/doi/full/10.1080/13603116.2021.1968514 [Accessed] 24th November 2023.

To start with, I wanted to create a visual graph comparing the measurements within the room compared to average dimensions of manual and electronic wheelchairs. The dimensions I obtained are from Accessible Public Realm: Updating Guidance and Further Research (Barham, Greenshields and Mitchell, 2020) which is a research report conducted by TRL Limited for the Department of transport. The purpose of this research project was to see how if the average dimensions have changed since their last research report which was conducted in 2002, to ensure public transport is still accessible. The data collection for the dimensions was collected in 2019 at mobility aid events around the UK.

The report also informs that “the recommendation of the ISO Standard for wheelchairs (ISO 7193) that there should be an additional allowance of at least 50mm, preferably 100mm,
should be allowed on each side of the wheelchair for the user’s hands and elbows.” (Barham, Greenshields and Mitchell, 2020, 14) This has not been included in the measurements in the chart.

There are varying widths for mobility aids such as rolled walkers and I found no study that reviewed average dimensions. I cross referenced several that I found for sale and the average size I found are similar to the following image and so I will use this data from Mobility Smart (2023) in my graph.

I decided to do graphs focusing on the wheelchair widths and spaces within the room. As this stood out to me during my observation intervention as potentials barriers.

Door Entry.

I spent quite some time looking for building regulations for minimum door widths in public spaces. There are recommended widths, however these measurements vary with different sources and there does not appear to be a legal minimum requirement. Rapid Ramp, a company that specialises in accessibility ramps for public building and private dwellings suggest a minimum internal door for new builds should be 800mm to be considered wheelchair accessible.

The door width to EB 822, 823, and 824 are all 822 so they meet the recommended minimum requirements for a new build. However, if you add the additional 200mm allowance for arms and elbows to the manual wheelchair widths as suggested by Barham, Greenshields, and Mitchell (2020: 14) this could be a barrier.

Path between occupied sewing machines and chairs.

The next clear barrier that I noticed was the space between the sewing machines and chairs. This looked very narrow and even more so when I asked my colleagues to occupy the machines to imitate a working classroom. The graph does show that the space is not wide enough to accommodate either a manual wheelchair or electronic.

Path between occupied pattern cutting tables and stall.

The third observation I made in regards to pathways was between the pattern cutting tables and stalls. Again my colleagues occupied two stalls back to back and I measured the space in between to see if there was enough space for wheelchair users to pass through. This again was very narrow and the graph clearly indicates that this is also not wheelchair accessible.

Conclusion of quantitative data

Although the entry into the room is compliant with the recommended minimum dimensions to be accessible, it is clear that there may be difficulties for wheelchair users to gain access to the room. A person who uses a manual wheelchair may require assistance as the additional allowance for arms and elbows may restrict them from independently gaining access. Once in the room, wheelchair users and those using mobility rollers would not be able to get access to all areas of the room due to the narrow pathways between the furniture in the room and this would have a profound impact on the students ability to complete technical workshops. Machines and irons would not be accessible to the student in the room’s current set up.

These barriers are ones that we can resolve. Re-organising the room, removing some of the machines to make more space is something that we can achieve. However, with the student numbers increasing, and are target student number doubling for September 2024, less machines and tables may have an impact. The current room capacity for EB 823 is 30. We currently have 14 lockstitch machines, 2 overlocker machines and 2 irons. Removing equipment will increase the student to equipment ratio and this could have a detrimental effect to their experience.

References

Barham, P. Greenshields, S. Mitchell, J. Average dimensions (2020) Barham, P. Greenshields, S. Mitchell, J. (2020) CLIENT PROJECT REPORT CPR2714 Accessible Public Realm: Updating
Guidance and Further Research Technical Annex 2: A review of the dimensions of wheeled mobility aids (RQ2) Available at https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5e4d412986650c10e4580eb5/accessible-public-realm-annex-2-review-of-the-dimensions-of-wheeled-mobility-aids.pdf Accessed 25th November 2023.

Rapid Ramp (2023) Table 2 minimum effective clear widths of doors. Rapid Ramp door widths. Available at https://www.rapidramp.co.uk/product-news/the-correct-wheelchair-door-width [Accessed] 25th November 2023.

Mobility Smart (2023) The forearm rollator walker Available at https://www.mobilitysmart.co.uk/the-forearm-rollator-walker.html [Accessed] 25th November 2023.

Masters, S (2023) Door Width in EB 823 graph.

Masters, S (2023) Path between occupied machines and chairs graph.

Masters, (2023) Width between occupied tables and stalls graph.

The biggest barriers we have that would have major impacts on students with physical disabilities and mobility impairments is the equipment we have. We are a practically heavy course and when the machines are not accessible, this effects my ability to deliver technical workshops for these students.

I personally would find it unethical to expect students with disabilities to
use different equipment to abled bodied students. That in my opinion is not
inclusive but excluding. The ideal is to find options that all students can
use. As stated by Bunbury (2020) “Being inclusive involves minimising
barriers that hinder learning and participation” By not having equipment
and furniture that can be used by abled and disabled students, we are creating
a divide.

While doing desk research on industrial sewing machines for wheelchair
users, I came across the website https://movingmood.com/ a Spanish company that
have conducted extensive research on the needs of people with functional
diversity and clothing, and to create a system to evaluate garment
accessibility. Along with the desire to implement accessible clothing and
encourage fashion designers to consider these standard, the have also been
conduction research to make the production itself accessible. They have developed
attachments to make industrial sewing machines wheelchair accessible.

Bunbury, S., (2020). Disability in higher education–do reasonable adjustments contribute to an inclusive curriculum?. International Journal of Inclusive Education, pg. 967. Available at https://www-tandfonline-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/doi/epdf/10.1080/13603116.2018.1503347?needAccess=true Accessed 10th November 2023

Moving Mood (2023) Available at https://movingmood.com/ Accessed on 24th November 2023

As EB822, 823, 824 and 828 have the same furniture and equipment set up in the same way, I decided I only needed to observe one room. As EB823 was unoccupied, I chose this to be the room I observed for my intervention.

According to Barham, Greenshields and Mitchell, J (2020:18) The average width of an occupied wheelchair is between 700mm-755mm. However it suggests an extra 100mm either side for the users hands and elbows. The doors to EB822, 823 and 824 are 820mm wide. This is a potential barrier as it is in the lower suggested with to be an inclusive door.

I walked around EB823 as this was unoccupied by a class. On entering through the doorway, the second barrier I encountered was space between the chairs back to back. With the chairs unoccupied, there is not enough space for a wheelchair to access.

I asked 3 of my colleagues to assist me at this point. I asked 2 to sit on opposite machines in a position that they felt comfortable to use it. I then measure the space between their chairs while my third colleague took the photo.

The distance between them was 520mm

I then asked my same colleagues to sit on the stalls at the pattern cutting tables back to back to measure the space in between them.

The distance between them on the stalls is 560mm.

As I continue around the room my focused moved to the pattern cutting tables. My first observation was how high these are. Abled bodied students are expected to stand while drafting patterns, or sit on a high stool. There is also a shelf under the tables which would stop a wheelchair from fitting under the table. This is the third barrier I have encountered.

The fourth barrier I encountered in the room were the lockstitch sewing machines and Overlockers. These are all used by pressing down on the foot pedal with your feet. If a student is unable to do this, the machine is unusable. The machines are height adjustable and a wheelchair can fit close to it.

The alternatives to using the industrial machines is to use one of the domestic machines we have which have a pedal free option, however the only tables in the rooms are the pattern cutting tables which are too high. The students would have to use the lower tables in IT open access outside EB823 to use the domestic machines.

References.

Barham, P. Greenshields, S. Mitchell, J. (2020) CLIENT PROJECT REPORT CPR2714 Accessible Public Realm: Updating
Guidance and Further Research Technical Annex 2: A review of the dimensions of wheeled mobility aids (RQ2) Available at https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5e4d412986650c10e4580eb5/accessible-public-realm-annex-2-review-of-the-dimensions-of-wheeled-mobility-aids.pdf Accessed 21th November 2023.

Masters, S. (21/11/23)Door to EB 823

Masters, S. (21/11/23) Door width

Masters, S. (21/11/23) Occupied machines

Masters, S. (21/11/23) Distances between chairs

Masters, S. (21/11/23) Distance between stalls

Masters, S. (21/11/23) Pattern cutting table height EB823

Masters, S. (21/11/23) Overlock machine E823

My ARP had only a few ethical considerations due to the lack of in person participation. The considerations I did make were mostly on wording the interview questions and feedback forms for my co workers.

After reading Williamson’s paper Action research: politics, ethics and participation (2002) I learned how important confidentiality and anonymity are within action research. By talking to my participants in advance I hope to provide reassurance that they will remain anonymous and have the right to withdraw at any time. I will ask for consent to record any interviews that need transcribing and will delete the recordings after.

I also read Reflexivity in Quantitative Research: a Rationale and Beginner’s Guide by Jamieson, Pownall and Govaart and found their table of questions really useful in terms of keeping my project on track and thinking about the ethical considerations and my positionality through each stage.

Ethics form V2 added January 8th 2024

Verbal approval was granted for my ethics forms.

References

Williamson, G.R. and Prosser, S., 2002. Action research: politics, ethics and participation. Journal of advanced nursing. Available at https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1365-2648.2002.02416.x [Accessed] 15th November 2023

Jamieson, M.K., Govaart, G.H. and Pownall, M., 2023. Reflexivity in quantitative research: A rationale and beginner’s guide. Social and Personality Psychology Compass, p.e12735.

I am from a white working class background and I have a BA hons in costume for performance from UAL. I am currently the specialist technician in costume for performance at London College of Fashion and I work with the BA and MA courses. I am an abled bodied woman and was diagnosed with learning difference in 2007. I have experience in applying for ISAs and DSA within UAL as I have applied for these as a student myself, and I recognise that I have a bias here. My learning difference also gives me insight on being a disabled student within UAL and how important inclusive learning environments are for students to flourish.

I wanted to do some research on how to conduct the room observation in order to get the best data from it. After reading Methods of comparative analysis (Bolbakov, Sinitsyn and Tsvetkov. 2020) I understand more about how to conduct the room observation and collect measurement data for comparative analysis. I plan to collect measurements within the room and compare them to average mobility aid dimensions to see if they would work within the space. I believe this is the best method as “Comparison can be considered as an intelligent procedure that allows us to examine a set of objects in order to discover their relations or to assess the degree of their differences and similarities.” (Bolbakov, Sinitsyn and Tsvetkov. 2020) I am able to get the results without needing participants.

I have also tried to get a better understanding of spaces and those with disabilities accessing them. Although a paper about accessible toilets, it still gave be a better understanding of how important it is to have the same access as able bodied people. As said by Kitchen and Law “For disabled people, the provision of public services and the design of the built environment can be a crucial determinant of participation.”

The importance of ensuring that for those with physical disabilities and mobility impairments, the workshop was fully accessible became even more apparently after reading Imries paper Disability and discourses of mobility and movement (2000) He identifies that “Mobility and movement are also dependent upon access from one place to another and, for disabled people, to be able to move through spaces unimpeded by physical objects. Indeed, a prerequisite for movement is the means for connectivity between places, and yet for most respondents’ movement is often hindered by the lack of appropriate infrastructure or mechanisms to enable them to move easily from one place to another. For instance, for most wheelchair users, the discontinuous nature of routeways is an ever-present part of their daily lives”

References

Bolbakov, R.G., Sinitsyn, A.V. and Tsvetkov, V.Y., 2020, November. Methods of comparative analysis. In Journal of Physics: Conference Series (Vol. 1679, No. 5, p. 052047). IOP Publishing. Available at https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1742-6596/1679/5/052047/pdf [Accessed] 6^th November 2023

Imrie, R., 2000. Disability and discourses of mobility and movement. Environment and planning A, 32(9), pp.1641-1656. Available at https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Rob-Imrie/publication/23538979_Disability_and_Discourses_of_Mobility_and_Movement/links/5f113a484585151299a1353d/Disability-and-Discourses-of-Mobility-and-Movement.pdf [Accessed] 8th November 2023.

Kitchin, R. and Law, R., 2001. The socio-spatial construction of (in) accessible public toilets. Urban studies, 38(2), pp.287-298. Available at https://www.jstor.org/stable/43100392?seq=1 [Accessed]  6^th November 2023

Now I have my question formulated and a plan for an intervention, I have used the spiral diagram to visualise what I am going to do.

I plan to read as much as I can about the use of room observations as a research method alongside looking at average wheelchair dimensions so I can compare the data to see if the rooms are compatible.

Although my focus is the barriers on the courses themselves, I do want to look at some external contributing factors to gain an understanding on the bigger picture.

References

Masters, S. (04/11/23) My Action Research Cycle